Sasha's on Shaw

BY: MICKEY KITTERMAN

Someone had a lot of fun putting together this chic and clever interior. Just gawking at the environment takes several minutes before even picking up the menu and wine list. It is an eclectic mix of granite surfaces, grand mill work salvaged from a Lafayette Square mansion, and wine bottles. While granite surfaces and French empire woodwork sound like a formal and stiff environment, Sasha’s is actually a warm and kickin’ back kind of space. It is almost two restaurants-one smoking, one non-smoking.

Entering from Shaw Avenue into the first room, a bar appears with both high top tables and chairs and more club-like seating arrangements featuring dining tables nearby. At the back of the room is what must be the most beautiful fireplace in St Louis-an actual, real wood burning fireplace. Dark wood paneling and ornate Corinthian columns make this nook look like something out of the St Louis Country Club, but instead of the expected overstuffed chintz sofas of the club there are mid-century style sofas in a comfy seating arrangement. This is the smoking section.

Passing into the second room, which is the non-smoking section, there is a whole second bar with bar seating as well. In adddition to the bar seating there is also seating at impressive banquettes upholstered with jagged-edged slabs of granite inlaid with wine bottle shaped granite mosaics. Iron bistro tables and wine barrels topped with more of the jagged edged granite slabs serve as dining tables. The walls are lined with wine bottles and the lighting grid is a collection of wine bottles made into glass lamp shades.

The menu offers a variety of dining options, all complimenting the varied wine selection. It is divided between crepes-savory and sweet, cold plates, hot plates, pizzas, and extensive cheese platters. From what I’ve sampled so far, the food does not disappoint. The plates sing with flavor. Unfortunately smoked salmon and smoked trout were unavailable when I visited, small disappointments easily forgiven during the holiday season when suppliers and customers are unpredictable. The Greek salad was marvelous. Properly made Greek salads contain no lettuce, most greek salads in this city arrive looking like a mixed salad with tomato, cucumber, and onion with some olives and feta sprinkled on top in a nod to Greece. Sasha’s embraces Greece with their beautiful version of (simply) chopped tomato, cucumbers, and onion, all dressed with a lively lemon and oregano combination. The salad comes garnished with warm pita triangles and the most incredible dolmas (stuffed grape leaves). Sasha’s dolmas (stuffed with rice and fresh mint marinated in lemon juice), were so delicious that the next time I visit, I’m going to try and order a whole plate of them.

Pate and wine go together swimmingly, and so it is at Sasha’s. Their truffled Goose liver pate is made by a choucutterie in Washington MO, and it is as smooth and deluxe as you’ll find anywhere. It comes with dried apricots, craisins, and cornichon for a small twist on the traditional accompaniments.

The sausage and cheese platters are also interesting. The sausage platter listed under cold plates as "Charcutterie" includes mostly Italian and Spanish sausages, despite it’s French title. Call it French, German, Italian, or Spanish it’s ll good with a glass of wine. The cheese selection is amazing for such a small neighborhood restaurant with modest menu prices. It includes choices from Italy, France, Switzerland, and Spain.

Lamb chops were another successful selection and the most expensive item on the menu at $12.95 (everything is so reasonably priced). They are small chops (as lamb chops should be-they are small creatures after all) marinated and grilled. They arrived fully cooked, with fall off the bone tenderness and served over some vegetabes and orzo (rice shaped pasta) with some greens dressed with Balsamic. I have some questions about their stated cooking technique as they tasted like meat that had been braised or poached, then grilled not just marinated and grilled. Also I had ordered them medium rare-as I always do, and as I stated they arrived cooked through. However, they were delicious and not dry despite being cooked through. I was not disappointed-just confused.

The wine list is extensive for such a small place, and is so interesting. My all time favorite Vouvray from Marc Brediff is there at $42 per bottle-wonderful with the trout and salmon when they become available again. Unusual and delicious whites such as Gruner Veltliner and Viognier are available. The hottest wine trends right now seem to be Spanish wines and Sasha’s would be a great place to start getting to know some of these unusual varietals. In addition to all of the usual varietals, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon etc. there are many good meritages (blends) which are not as well known as the varietals, but are sometimes better drinking.

In summation, Sasha’s reminds me of dining in the early days of Fraziers on Pestalozzi, before West County descended on that place. It’s a wonderful neighborhood place with a funky urban sophistication, reasonable prices, great options to choose from, and an air of being an undiscovered star. The original Sasha’s is located on DeMun Avenue, and it is great to see the owners take a chance in the Shaw neighborhood.

Sasha’s On Shaw
4069 Shaw Avenue
St. Louis, MO.
(314) 771-7274
www.sashaswinebar.com

You can e-mail Mickey at mickeykitterman@sbcglobal.net