Atlas can shoulder its name
by Mickey Kitterman
05-11-2007

• Atlas
• 5513 Pershing
• 314-367-6800

Atlas can be a collection of maps, or it can be the Titan prince who bears the weight of the Heavens and Earth on his back, but in St. Louis it can also be a bistro in the Central West End. Many throw that bistro label on a variety of restaurants, but in this case it is more than fitting. The menu lists seven appetizers, one soup, three salads and nine entrees, all listed on one side of a single sheet of paper — the other side is the wine list. A separate menu lists nine desserts, espressos and coffees and after-dinner drinks.

Atlas’ stated philosophy is to provide French- and Italian-influenced dishes at reasonable prices. And they do a superb job of it. Nothing on the dinner menu is over $22 (that’s for the rack of lamb). Most entrees are under $20.

Dining at Atlas is not unlike experiencing a jazz set with an on-pitch, tight quartet. It is elegant but also relaxed and informal. The flavors and trends of Italy and France are abundant, but they are tweaked and enhanced, like the way a jazz melody is recognizable, but also changed and more sparkling in a jam session.

The dining room is sparsely decorated in a pale yellow scheme that could invoke Provence, or Tuscany, or even North Africa, which is consistent with the menu. Food arrives on plain white utilitarian platters and the utensils are heavy and comfortable and arrive wrapped in a large crisp white napkin. Everything about Atlas is understated; nothing gaudy or ostentatious.

Jean Donnelly and chef Michael Roberts own and run Atlas. Donnelly is a St. Louis native, Roberts a California transplant. They met and married while working in the competitive San Francisco restaurant business.

I can’t remember the last time I’ve had such well-prepared food. There is a bistro standard item of steak frites — at Atlas it is a strip steak with béarnaise and french fries. There is roast chicken, another bistro staple, which at Atlas heads South to Italy for a stuffing of prosciutto and sage served over polenta. And so it goes at Atlas: familiar and recognizable dishes with a jazzy new riff, new deliciousness at every bite.

Walleyed pike, a Great Lakes fish not seen on many menus in St. Louis, was irresistible with a preserved lemon sauce and saffron-scented fingerling potatoes. Sweetbreads, another French bistro staple, is presented in a lighter version with oyster mushrooms and asparagus. Piccolo frito was a beautiful small plate of vegetables dusted with semolina and fried to crispness served with pungent lemon aioli.

The wine list covers a lot of territory from France and Italy to California, Germany and Spain. Bottles range from $22 to $60 and several are available by the glass.

Desserts are not to be missed. I was told they are all (except ice creams) made in house from scratch. I sampled a rich chocolate Pave that was smooth and intense, and Marjolaine cake, layers of hazelnut and almond sponge with cream and chocolate ganache.

If I had any complaints — and I really don’t — it would be that Donnelly and Roberts play things too safe, things are too tightly controlled. But like great jazz sessions, spontaneity and memorable performances only come through highly disciplined and seasoned players.

You can e-mail Mickey Kitterman at MickeyKitterman@sbcglobal.net.

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