 In
Pursuit Of St. Louis’ Best Hamburger
Last weekend I got this uncontrollable urge to eat some meat. Not just
any meat, but a juicy hamburger. I wanted a hamburger like I use to enjoy
as a child, not a fast food hockey puck. I grew up in the 50s when MacDonald’s
was a twinkle in someone’s eye and fast food was nonexistent.
For the best burger in Dallas in those days, it was a tie between Kel’s
Kitchen and Goff’s (both still in existence and both distinctively
different).
Not being made of money, I had to use my resources and remain in St.
Louis, explore my options and seek out "The best (in my opinion)
in the Lou."
Carl’s Drive In, 9033 Manchester Road, is two blocks from my house
in Brentwood. It has been there for a million years. Okay this is an exaggeration
— half a million years. This quaint "root beer stand"
is a must experience. This is the Ted Drewes of burgers.
As one enters the east side of the building, there is a row of permanent
stools and a counter. Behind the counter, in the center of this small
roadside house is the grill area. Across the way is a mirror image counter
and seating area. To get to that seating area, you have to go outside
and walk around the building and into another entrance.
The menu is straightforward: hamburgers — single, double or triple;
foot long dogs with or without chili; tamales; fries, onion rings, etc.
AND barrel root beer in frosted mugs.
I bellied up to the counter and ordered what I was a-hankering for —
a burger: mustard, relish, onions and pickles, catsup on the side, an
order of fries and a large tanker of root beer.
I watched as the cook behind the counter pulled from an under-counter
refrigerator a small puck of ground beef, threw it on the grill and smashed
it down with an oversized spatula. It sizzled. She turned and threw a
handful of fries into a wire basket and dropped it into hot oil. (I think
it’s oil!). She toiled like an artist, working quickly, moving deftly
within her four-foot work space, orchestrating and juggling several orders
— and getting them right.
The burgers come one way — cooked — so don’t try to
order rare or medium. I checked under the bun to make sure everything
was there. Yes, onion, pickle, mustard and relish. Just like what I had
at Kel’s Kitchen in Dallas as a child for breakfast on Saturday
mornings. But would it taste the same? Would it bring back a flood of
memories? Is this a great burger?
I reassembled my burger, dipped a side of the bun into catsup and brought
it to my mouth. I bit down; the taste — nirvana, the memories —
better than a $150 session with a shrink. Carl’s Drive In is my
oasis. My Kel’s away from Kel’s. It is everything I remember
from yesterday and "yesterday, life was just an easy game to play
…"
And then I washed it down with a sea of root beer. The size-large is
almost too much to drink — I said "almost." It is so good,
I wouldn’t waste a drop.
That evening it was off to the Boathouse in Forest Park for the Balloon
Glow. What an experience. This newly renovated landmark is a must-see
experience. My friend and I sat inside the dining room. This glass enclosed
space with stone fireplace emanates the feeling of a clubhouse except
you overlook the lake with paddle and row boats.
We ordered burgers. I guess they only come one way here as well, since
Christy, our server didn’t ask how we wanted them cooked. We also
ordered seasoned fries and a basket of homemade chips and the house slaw.
As we waited for our order, we sipped our beers and watched the parade
of balloon watchers. We noticed that the Boathouse offers brunch on Saturday
and Sunday from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. My friend and I discussed what a
great thing to do on the weekend: jog to Forest Park, do a morning row
and then enjoy brunch. Okay, I can see driving to Forest Park, having
him row the boat and then enjoying the brunch.
The menu at the Boathouse is simple, straightforward, appetizing and
well executed. Brunch looks even better.
The burgers were well cooked and presented "club" style with
lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion stacked on the side. After I prepped
my burger to my taste (I added tomato, onion and catsup to the bun), I
bit down. It was delicious; the fries were great and the homemade chips,
out of this world.
My friend and I agreed this is a great spot to go to enjoy a pizza or
burger, watch the sunset or get some exercise. This is a great St. Louis
landmark, one where the beauty of Forest Park and the excellent food of
Catering Saint Louis will prove to be a marriage made in heaven.
I still wanted a burger that is a true piece of beef — one that
can be ordered rare to cremated or somewhere in between.
The best burger I have found in St. Louis is at O’Connell’s
Pub, 4652 Shaw, at the corner of Kingshighway and Shaw. Thanks to John
and Suzanne who urged me to try O’Connell’s, despite my reluctance
because they serve on paper plates and my royal disposition requires china.
I ordered my burger rare with catsup and onions only. This is my purist
nature.
(At Burger King, I order catsup and onions only. For fast food burgers:
Burger King and only Burger King!)
The burger came. It was perfection. O’Connell’s offers a
burger for those who are burger aficionados. There is nothing more I can
say about this burger. It is worth the trip for a burger like you would
make at home.
So my weekend was spent exploring for burgers. A safari that took me
to the corners of my world and raised my cholesterol about 30 points.
It was worth it; it was delicious. Guess I better get to the Boathouse
and row myself back into shape. (And the pizza did look really good there!)
You can e-mail David Schwartz at soireebydavid@sbcglobal.net.
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